Home

FAQ

Map & Directions

FAQ

 Click here for printable version

American Veterinary Medical Association
 

September is Senior Wellness Month
Frequently Asked Questions about caring for an older pet
 
February 2009
 
Due to improved veterinary care and dietary habits, pets are living longer now than they ever have before. One consequence of this is that pets, along with their owners and veterinarians, are faced with a whole new set of age-related conditions. In recent years there has been extensive research on the problems facing older pets and how their owners and veterinarians can best handle their special needs.

Q: When does a pet become "old"?
A:  It varies, but cats and small dogs are generally considered geriatric at the age of 7. Larger breed dogs tend to have shorter life spans and are considered geriatric when they are approximately 6 years of age. Owners tend to want to think of their pet's age in human terms. While it is not as simple as "1 human year = X cat/dog years", there are calculations that can help put a pet's age in human terms:

Q: What kinds of health problems can affect older pets?
A: Geriatric pets can develop many of the same problems seen in older people, such as

1. Cancer
2. Heart disease
3. Kidney / urinary tract disease
4. Liver disease
5. Diabetes
6. Joint or bone disease
7. Senility
8. Weakness

Q: I know my pet is getting older. How do I help them stay happy and healthy for as long as possible?
A: Talk to your veterinarian about how to care for your older pet and be prepared for possible age-related health issues. Senior pets require increased attention, including more frequent visits to the veterinarian, possible changes in diet, and in some cases alterations to their home environment. Here are some basic considerations when caring for older pets:

Q: My older pet is exhibiting changes in behavior. What's going on?
A: Before any medical signs become apparent, behavioral changes can serve as important indicators that something is changing in an older pet, which may be due to medical or other reasons. As your pet's owner, you serve a critical role in detecting early signs of disease because you interact and care for your pet on a daily basis and are familiar with your pet's behavior and routines. If your pet is showing any change in behavior or other warning signs of disease, contact your veterinarian and provide them with a list of the changes you have observed in your pet. Sometimes, the changes may seem contradictory - such as an older pet that has symptoms of hearing loss but also seems more sensitive to strange sounds.

Q: Is my pet becoming senile?
A: Possibly. Once any underlying or other disease causes have been ruled out, there is a chance your pet may be experiencing cognitive dysfunction. Studies conducted in the early 1990s were the first to identify brain changes in older dogs that were similar to brain changes seen in humans with Alzheimer's disease (ie, β-amyloid deposits). Laboratory tests were also developed in the 1990s to detect learning and memory deficits in older dogs. Recently these studies have started on younger dogs in order to fully understand the effect of aging on the canine brain. Similar studies in young and older cats are also ongoing.  While researchers are still not able to identify any genetic cause of why certain animals develop cognitive dysfunction, there are drugs and specific diets available that can help manage cognitive dysfunction in dogs. If you think your pet is becoming senile, discuss it with your veterinarian.

Q: What are the common signs of disease in an older pet?
A: The signs you might see will vary with the disease or problem affecting your pet, and some signs can be seen with more than one problem. As the pet's owner, you can provide your veterinarian with valuable information that can help them determine what is going on with your pet.

Q: How common is cancer in older pets?
A: In pets the rate of cancer increases with age. Cancer is responsible for approximately half the deaths of pets over 10 years of age. Dogs get cancer at roughly the same rate as humans, while cats tend to have lower rates of cancer. Some cancers, such as breast or testicular cancer, are largely preventable by spaying and neutering. A diagnosis of cancer may be based on x-rays, blood tests, physical appearance of tumors, and other physical signs. The ultimate test for cancer is through confirmation via a biopsy. You can read more in the AVMA's What you should know about cancer in animals.

Q: My pet seems to be in pain, and isn't as active as they should be. What should I do?
A: First, talk to your veterinarian and have them examine your pet. Your pet might have arthritis. Older pets, especially large dogs, are vulnerable to arthritis and other joint diseases, and the signs you see can vary. This chart provides the basic signs you might see if your pet has arthritis; you might see one or more of these signs in your pet.

Signs of arthritis often are similar to signs of normal aging, so if your pet seems to have any of these symptoms for more than two weeks, the best thing to do is to have your veterinarian examine them, and then advise you as to what treatment plan would be best to help your pet deal with the pain. Arthritis treatments for pets are similar to those for humans, and may include:

• Healthy diet and exercise to help maintain proper weight.
• Working with your veterinarian to find a drug treatment that helps relieve the pain.
• Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS): the most common treatment for arthritis in dogs. These drugs are similar to ibuprofen, aspirin, and other human pain relievers.
• Over-the-counter pet treatments, such as pills or food containing either glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate or Omega fatty acids. Both have shown to help relieve the symptoms of arthritis in dogs.
• Over-the-counter pet treatments, such as pills or food containing either glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate or Omega fatty acids. Both have shown to help relieve the symptoms of arthritis in dogs.
• A veterinarian-prescribed NSAID and an over-the-counter treatment that together may help decrease pain and disease progression.
• Diets with special supplements may also help decrease the discomfort and increase the joint mobility.

Do not give human pain medications to your pet without first consulting your veterinarian. Some human products, including over-the-counter medications, can be fatal for pets.Changes in the home environment may also help you deal with an older pet who is experiencing stiffness and/or pain. Orthopedic beds, stair steps to help an animal up to higher places (so they don't have to jump), raised feeding platforms, etc. can help make your arthritic pet's life more comfortable.

Q: When should we euthanize a pet? How will we know it's the right time?
A: This can be an incredibly difficult question for both the owner and the veterinarian, and is often a very tough decision to make. Sometimes, euthanasia is obviously the best thing to do for your pet. At other times, however, it can be less clear. An open discussion with your veterinarian, including an honest evaluation of your pet's quality of life, should help you make the decision.One way to determine if your aging pet is still enjoying life and can remain with us a little longer is by using a "Quality of Life" scale to determine if the animal's basic needs are being met. This scale can be very helpful for the veterinarian and pet owner when deciding what is best for your pet. In this scale, pets are scored on a scale of 1 through 10 in each category, with 10 being the highest score for quality of life. Again, only an honest evaluation of each category will help with the decision.

The AVMA offers several additional resources for pet owners, including brochures that are available Online
(These can be downloaded and printed at no charge.)

• How do I know it’s time? Pet Euthanasia
• Understanding Your Feelings of Loss When Your Animal Dies

Links to More Information about Caring For an Older Pet The Geriatric Issue
Treating Pain in Your Dog: Keeping your pet, active, safe and pain-free
Arthritis and Pets
Guidelines for Veterinary Hospice Care
Senior Pet Care
What You Should Know about Your Pet's Pain Medication
Veterinary Q & A: Caring for Geriatric Dogs
Veterinary Q & A: Caring for Geriatric Cats
Pet Diabetes Month

Podcasts Available through AVMA

Caring For Your Geriatric Dog
Hospice Care For Pets
Is My Pet Stressed?
Arthritis in Animals
Behavioral Preventative Health Programs for Pets
The Perils of Pudgy Pets
Exercising with Your Pet
Weight Loss Tips for Cats

This information has been prepared as a service by the American Veterinary Medical Association. Redistribution is acceptable, but the document's original content and format must be maintained, and its source must be prominently identified. Please contact Dr. Kimberly May (800.248.2862, ext 6667) with questions or comments. 

Canine Influenza
Frequently Asked Questions by Dog Owners

Dr. Cynda Crawford, Clinical Assistant Professor in the Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine, prepared this fact sheet to answer the 10 most popular questions from dog owners about canine influenza.

1. What is canine influenza?
Canine influenza is a highly contagious respiratory infection of dogs caused by a novel influenza A subtype H3N8 virus that was first discovered in 2004.

2. Where does canine influenza occur?
Canine influenza has been documented in 30 states and the District of Columbia. At this time, the canine influenza virus (CIV) is very prevalent in many communities in Colorado, Florida, New York, and Pennsylvania.

3. What type of infection does CIV cause?
Similar to influenza viruses that infect other mammals, canine influenza virus causes an acute respiratory infection in dogs. It is one of several viruses and bacteria that are associated with canine infectious respiratory disease, or what’s commonly referred to as “kennel cough”. CIV infection can cause respiratory disease by itself or along with other canine respiratory pathogens. Unlike human influenza, canine influenza is not a “seasonal” infection. Infections can occur year round.

4. What are the clinical signs of canine influenza?
Like influenza viruses for other species, CIV causes flu‐like illness consisting of cough, sneezing, and nasal discharge. Virtually all exposed dogs become infected; about 80% develop flu‐like illness, while another 20% do not become ill. Fortunately, most dogs recover within 2 weeks without any further health complications. However, some dogs progress to pneumonia, which is usually due to secondary bacterial infections. While the overall mortality rate for canine influenza is low, the secondary pneumonia can be life‐threatening. There is no evidence for age or breed susceptibility for developing pneumonia during canine influenza.

5. Who is susceptible to canine influenza?
Because canine influenza is due to a virus that is novel to the canine population, dogs lack preexisting immunity to the virus. Dogs of any breed, age or health status are therefore susceptible to infection. Although studies have not verified, it is likely that dogs that have recovered from infection retain immunity to re‐infection for an undetermined time period. Canine influenza is most likely to spread in facilities where dogs are housed together and where there is a high turnover of dogs in and out of the facility. Dogs in shelters, boarding and training facilities, day care centers, dog shows, veterinary clinics, pet stores and grooming parlors are at highest risk for exposure to CIV, especially if these facilities are located in communities where the virus is prevalent. Dogs that mostly stay at home and walk around the neighborhood are at low risk. CIV does not infect people, and there is no documentation that cats have become infected by exposure to dogs with canine influenza.

6. How is canine influenza transmitted?
As with other respiratory pathogens, the most efficient transmission occurs by direct contact with infected dogs and by aerosols generated by coughing and sneezing. The virus can also contaminate kennel surfaces, food and water bowls, collars and leashes, and the hands and clothing of people who handle infected dogs. Fortunately, the virus is easily inactivated by washing hands, clothes and other items with soap and water.

7. How is canine influenza diagnosed?
Canine influenza cannot be diagnosed by clinical signs because all of the other respiratory pathogens cause similar signs of coughing, sneezing, and nasal discharge. For dogs that have been ill for less than 4 days, veterinarians can collect swabs from the nose or throat and submit them to a diagnostic laboratory that offers a validated PCR test for canine influenza virus. The most accurate test recommended for confirmation of infection requires the collection of a small blood sample from the dog during the first week of illness, followed by collection of another sample 10 to 14 days later. The paired serum samples are submitted to a diagnostic laboratory for measurement of antibodies to CIV that were formed in response to infection.

8. How is canine influenza treated?
Since canine influenza is a viral infection, treatment consists mainly of supportive care while the virus runs its course, much like for human influenza. Dog owners should consult with their veterinarians if they think their dog has canine influenza. The veterinarian can determine what type of supportive care is needed, including whether antibiotics should be given for secondary bacterial infections. Dogs with pneumonia most likely require more intensive care provided in a hospital setting under the supervision of a veterinarian.

9. Is canine influenza contagious?
Like influenza infections in other species, canine influenza is highly contagious. Infected dogs shed virus in their respiratory secretions for 7 to 10 days, during which time the dog is contagious to other dogs. Infected dogs that do not show clinical signs are also contagious. Once the virus has run its course, the dog is no longer contagious. Therefore, we recommend that dogs with canine influenza be isolated from other dogs for two weeks to err on the conservative side. CIV does not cause a permanent infection.

10. Is there a vaccine for canine influenza?
In May 2009, the USDA approved the licensure of the first influenza vaccine for dogs developed by Intervet/Schering Plough Animal Health Corporation. The canine influenza vaccine contains inactivated whole virus, so there is no chance that the vaccine itself can cause respiratory infections. During tests to evaluate vaccine performance, there were no side effects or safety issues in a field trial including more than 700 dogs ranging in age from six weeks to 10 years and representing 30 breeds. The vaccine is intended as an aid in the control of disease associated with CIV infection. Although the vaccine may not prevent infection, efficacy trials have shown that vaccination significantly reduces the severity and duration of clinical illness, including the incidence and severity of damage to the lungs. In addition, the vaccine reduces the amount of virus shed and shortens the shedding interval. This means that vaccinated dogs that become infected have less illness and are not as contagious to other dogs. These benefits are similar to those provided by influenza vaccines used in other species, including humans. The canine influenza vaccine is a “lifestyle” vaccine, in that it is intended for dogs at risk for exposure to CIV, including those that participate in activities with many other dogs or are housed in communal facilities, particularly in communities where the virus is prevalent. Dogs that may benefit from canine influenza vaccination include those that are already receiving the kennel cough vaccine for Bordetella because the risk groups are the same. Dog owners should consult with their veterinarian to determine whether their dog’s lifestyle includes risk for exposure to CIV, and the protection provided by the canine influenza vaccine. 

What is rabies?
Rabies is a deadly disease caused by a virus that attacks the nervous system. The virus is secreted in saliva and is usually transmitted to people and animals by a bite from an infected animal. Less commonly, rabies can be transmitted when saliva from a rabid animal comes in contact with an open cut on the skin or the eyes, nose, or mouth of a person or animal. Once the outward signs of the disease appear, rabies is nearly always fatal.
What animals can get rabies?Only mammals can get rabies; birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians do not. Most cases of rabies occur in wild animals — mainly skunks, raccoons, coyotes, bats, and foxes. In recent years, cats have become the most common domestic animal infected with rabies. This is because many cat owners do not vaccinate their cats before the cats are exposed to rabid wildlife outdoors. Rabies also occurs in dogs and cattle in significant numbers and, while not as common, has been diagnosed in horses, goats, sheep, swine and ferrets.Improved vaccination programs and control of stray animals have been effective in preventing rabies in most pets. Approved rabies vaccines are available for cats, dogs, ferrets, horses, cattle and sheep. Licensed oral vaccines have been used for mass immunization of wildlife.

What are the signs of rabies in animals?
Once the rabies virus enters the body, it travels along the nerves to the brain. Dogs, cats, and ferrets with rabies may show a variety of signs, including fearfulness, aggression, excessive drooling, difficulty swallowing, staggering, and seizures. Rabid wild animals may only display unusual behavior; for example, an animal that is usually only seen at night may be seen wandering in the daytime. In addition to those signs seen in dogs and cats, horses, cattle, sheep, and goats with rabies may exhibit depression, self mutilation, or increased sensitivity to light.

How great is the risk of rabies to humans?
Rabies vaccination and animal control programs, along with better treatment for people who have been bitten, have dramatically reduced the number of human cases of rabies in the United States. Most of the relatively few, recent human cases in this country have resulted from exposures to bats. A few rabies cases have resulted from corneal or organ/tissue transplants from an infected donor, but these have been extremely rare. Dogs are still a significant source of rabies in other countries, so travelers should be aware of this risk when traveling outside of the United States.

What can I do to help control rabies?
Have your veterinarian vaccinate your dogs, cats, ferrets, and select horses and livestock. Your veterinarian will advise you on the recommended or required frequency of vaccination in your area.Reduce the possibility of exposure to rabies by not letting your pets roam free. Keep cats and ferrets indoors, and supervise dogs when they are outside. Spaying or neutering your pet may decrease roaming tendencies and will prevent them from contributing to the birth of unwanted animals.Don't leave exposed garbage or pet food outside, as it may attract wild or stray animals. Wild animals should never be kept as pets. Not only may this be illegal, but wild animals pose a potential rabies threat to caretakers and to others. Observe all wild animals from a distance. A rabid wild animal may appear tame but don't go near it. Teach children NEVER to handle unfamiliar animals — even if they appear friendly. If you see a wild animal acting strangely, report it to the city or county animal control department.

Bat-proof your home and other structures to prevent bats from nesting and having access to people. (See www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvrd/rabies/bats_&_rabies/bats&.htm for more information.)

What if my PET HAS BITTEN someone?
Urge the victim to see a physician immediately and to follow the physician's recommendations.Check with your veterinarian to determine if your pet's vaccinations are up-to-date.Report the bite to the local health department and animal control authorities. If your pet is a cat, dog or ferret, the officials will confine the animal and watch it closely for ten days. Home confinement may be allowed.

Immediately report any illness or unusual behavior by your pet to the local health department and to your veterinarian.

Don't let your pet stray and don't give your pet away. The animal must be available for observation by public health authorities or a veterinarian.After the recommended observation period, have your pet vaccinated for rabies if it does not have a current rabies vaccination.

What if my PET HAS BEEN BITTEN?
Consult your veterinarian immediately and report the bite to local animal control authorities.

Even if your dog, cat or ferret has a current vaccination, it should be revaccinated immediately, kept under the owner's control, and observed for a period as specified by state law or local ordinance (normally 45 days or more). Animals with expired vaccinations will need to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.Dogs, cats and ferrets that have never been vaccinated and are exposed to a rabid animal may need to be euthanatized or placed in strict isolation for six months.

Animals other than dogs, cats, and ferrets that are bitten by a rabid or potentially rabid animal may need to be euthanatized immediately.

What if I am bitten?
Don't panic, but don't ignore the bite. Wash the wound thoroughly and vigorously with soap and lots of water.Call your physician immediately and explain how you were bitten. Follow the doctor's advice. If necessary, your physician will give you the post exposure treatment recommended by the United States Public Health Service and may also treat you for other possible infections that could result from the bite.If possible, confine or capture the animal under a large box or other container if that can be done safely. Once captured, don't try to pick up the animal. Call the local animal control authorities to collect it. If the animal cannot be captured, try to memorize its appearance (size, color, etc.) and where it went after biting you.

If it is a wild animal, only try to capture it if you can do so without getting bitten again. If the animal cannot be contained and must be killed to prevent its escape, do so without damaging the head. The brain will be needed to test for rabies.

Report the bite to the local health department. Prompt and appropriate treatment after being bitten and before the disease develops can stop the infection and prevent the disease.

For more information on rabies, contact your veterinarian, or your local health department, or visit the following sites:

American Veterinary Medical Association (www.avma.org)
United States Centers for Disease Control (http://www.cdc.gov)

Xylitol Toxicity

What is xylitol?
Xylitol is a white crystalline sugar substitute that is found in many products including sugar free candy and gums.  Xylitol, in humans, has been shown to have many benefits including reduction of periodontal disease, lower chances of osteoporosis, and perhaps even a reduction in breast cancer.   

Why is xylitol so bad for dogs?
Xylitol had two deadly effects: 1) the pancreas confuses xylitol with real sugar and releases insulin.  This surge of insulin causes the normal glucose amounts to fall to life threatening low levels, (severe hypoglycemia).  2) xylitol destroys liver cells causing liver failure, possible bleeding and even death.    

What are the signs of xylitol toxicity?
Vomiting is one of the first signs and usually begins within 30 minutes after ingestion, but may persist for more than 12 hours.  Common signs of hypoglycemia include weakness, staggering, lethargy, collapsing and seizures.  With liver failure your dog may have vomiting, anorexia, lethargy, and decreased blood clotting times.  These symptoms usually take 8-12 hours to start, but may not develop up to 24-48 hours after ingesting.  Many of the dogs that experience liver failure do not show signs of low blood sugar first. 

How much xylitol is toxic?
The toxic dose is about 0.1 grams per kilogram of body weight (about 0.045 grams per pound).  Most gums have 0.3-0.4 grams of xylitol per stick, so a 10 pound dog could be poisoned with as little as ½ a stick of gum.  The dose that causes liver damage is 1 gram per kilogram of body weight (about 10 times that of hypoglycemia), so the 10 pound dog would have to eat a package of unopened gum.
Trident regular gum has 0.22 grams of xylitol per piece, Trident Xtra care had 0.28 grams per piece and Trident stride has 0.21 grams per piece.

What do I do if my dog eats xylitol containing products?
Contact your local, or emergency veterinarian ASAP.  Treatment usually includes hospitalization, IV fluids and blood work.  Patients with liver failure require more extensive blood work, may need blood transfusion and days of hospitalization and IV treatment.  Many dogs recover fully with prompt veterinary care.

What should I do to keep my dog safe?
Do not have sugar free gums, candy or other products containing xylitol in the house.  Some mouth washes and toothpastes may also contain xylitol.  Make sure that you read the label and keep these products away for dogs.

What about cats, ferrets and other animals?
As of now there is no clear data that other animals are susceptible to xylitol toxicity.  The possibility is there and so for safety sake keep any products containing xylitol out of the house.

Dr. Lara L. Taylor
September, October  and November
By Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC and Catherine Adams, DVMNow that summer has drawn to an end, it’s important to remember all those upcoming seasonal toxins that we need to be aware of! With Halloween and Thanksgiving right around the corner, make sure to educate yourself on the pet poisons that are around your house and that we commonly see here at Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) during this time of the year.

Chocolate: While the occasional chocolate chip within one cookie may not be an issue, we worry about certain types of chocolate – the less sweet and the darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is to your pet. Baker’s chocolate and dark chocolate pose the biggest problem. Other sources include chewable, flavored multi-vitamins, baked goods, or chocolate-covered espresso beans. The chemical toxicity is due to a methylxanthine (like theobromine), and results in vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, inflammation of the pancreas (i.e., pancreatitis), an abnormal heart rhythm, seizures, and rarely, even death. With Halloween right around the corner, make sure your kids know to hide the stash from your dogs. (Dogs make up 95% of all our chocolate calls, as cats are usually too discriminating to eat chocolate!) In smaller dogs, even the wrappers from candy can result in a secondary obstruction in the stomach or intestines.

Table food: While you may think you are “loving” your dog by giving him table scraps from Thanksgiving dinner, it could be very unsafe for your pet. While there’s not a “toxicity” issue from fatty table foods (such as bacon, gravy, turkey skin, grizzle, etc.), it can result in a gastroenteritis (such as a mild vomiting or diarrhea) to a severe, fatal pancreatitis. Other table food like corn-on-the-cob can result in a severe foreign body in your dog’s intestines, resulting in projectile vomiting, diarrhea, and may require an expensive intestinal surgery. Desserts made with xylitol, a natural sugar-free sweetener, or foods containing grapes or raisins can also result in toxicity. Xylitol results in an acute drop in blood sugar and even liver failure at high doses, while grapes and raisins can result in severe, fatal acute kidney failure. When in doubt, don’t let your pet get any table food! 

Mouse and rat poisons (rodenticides): As we prepare to winterize our garage, cabin, or house, keep in mind that there are some more dangerous rat poisons to pick from than others. Always make sure to place these poisonous baits in areas where your pet can’t reach them (i.e., high up on shelves, hidden behind work spaces, etc.). Currently there are four separate categories of rodenticides available for general use. Each has a different and unique mechanism of action. This results in four different sets of clinical signs in both the target rodent population and our curious pets who might consume them. All of these rodenticides also pose the potential for “relay toxicity”– in other words, if your dog eats a whole bunch of dead mice poisoned by rodenticides, they can get the secondary effects from this. This is most commonly seen in birds of prey (i.e., raptors), so we generally recommend avoiding them in the first place!

Long-acting anticoagulants (LAACs): By far the most well-known and perhaps most widely used rodenticides are the LAACS. This family of rodenticides works by causing internal bleeding and preventing the body from clotting normally. Common signs include coughing (blood in the lungs), large and soft lumps under the skin, vomiting, nose bleeds, bruised skin, exercise intolerance, weakness, bloody urine, bleeding from the gums, and inappetance. With LAACS, it takes 2-5 days before the poison actually takes effect and before clinical signs of bleeding occur, but chronic ingestion shortens the time period. If there is any suspicion of ingestion, a prothrombin test, usually referred to as a PT test, supports the diagnosis (it takes 48 hours after ingestion before this PT test will be abnormal). Fortunately, prescription-strength Vitamin K1, the antidote, is routinely found in most veterinary office.

Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3): One of the most dangerous rat poisons out there is a Vitamin D3-based rodenticide. This type basically increases calcium blood levels so high that it causes a secondary kidney failure. With this type of rat poison, only a tiny amount needs to be ingested before it causes a problem, and long-term, expensive treatment is usually necessary. This is the type to avoid in your garage, as it has no antidote!

Bromethalin: This rarer type of rat poison doesn’t have an antidote and results in brain swelling. If toxic amounts are ingested, we see clinical signs of walking drunk, tremoring, and seizuring. Treatment is symptomatic and may require an extended amount of time in the veterinary hospital due to long-lasting effects (days up to a week).

Phosphides: This type of poison is more commonly seen in mole and gopher poison, and typically doesn’t come in the classic blue-green or yellow blocks or pellets. Phosphide rodenticides typically come in a poisoned “gummy worm” form that you put in the dirt. These types of phosphide poisons result in phosphine gas in the stomach, resulting in severe bloat, profuse vomiting, abdominal pain, and potential lung and heart complications. Like cholecalciferol poisons, it only takes a small amount of poison to cause a big problem! Make sure to keep these toxins away from your pets, as this type can be poisonous to you too (if you inhale the phosphine gas if your dog vomits!).

Mushrooms: There are various types of mushrooms located throughout the United States that may be non-toxic; however, other types of mushrooms may be irritating to the stomach and intestines, while some types of mushrooms may be hallucinogenic or result in liver failure (i.e., acute hepatic necrosis). While the likelihood of mushroom toxicity is low, it’s very difficult for veterinarians and pet owners to be able to readily identify the exact species of mushroom that is in your yard, and mycologist (mushroom experts) aren’t readily available! Because mushrooms can be so toxic, it’s important to immediately bring your dog to a vet right away for decontamination (inducing vomiting and giving activated charcoal to bind up any poison), provided your dog is alert, asymptomatic, and able to adequately protect his or her upper airway (i.e., voice box). Sometimes stomach pumping (i.e., gastric lavage) is even necessary in severe cases. In general, clinical signs seen from mushroom ingestion include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, walking drunk, depression, tremors, and seizures, with liver and kidney damage occurring later. One can collect all the pieces of the mushroom in a paper towel, place them in a labeled (“DO NOT EAT! POISONOUS”) paper bag, and refrigerate the sample for future possible identification by a mycologist.

Compost bins or piles: While we applaud you for composting, make sure to do so appropriately – your compost shouldn’t contain any dairy or meat products, and should always be fenced off for the sake of your pets and wildlife. These piles of decomposing and decaying organic matter and molding food products have the potential to contain tremorgenic mycotoxins, which are toxic to both pets and wildlife. Even small amounts ingested can result in clinical signs within 30 minutes to several hours. Clinical signs include agitation, hyperthermia, hyper-responsiveness, panting, drooling, and vomiting, and can progress to serious CNS signs (including incoordination, tremors, and seizures). Ruleouts for this include other toxins that can cause similar signs, such as metaldehydes (i.e., snail bait), strychnine, organophosphates (the ingredient in some types of fertilizers), and methylxanthines (i.e., chocolate). Prompt decontamination and treatment is necessary!

The best thing any pet owner can do is to be educated on common household toxins (both inside the house and out in the garden!), and to make sure you pet proof your house appropriately. Make sure to keep all these products in labeled, tightly-sealed containers out of your pet’s reach. When in doubt, if you think your pet has been poisoned, contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680 with any questions or concerns. Please be aware there is a $35.00/per case fee, but it may save your pet’s life!

Resources:  Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) is an Animal Poison Control that provides treatment advice and recommendations relating to exposures to potential dangerous plants, products, medications, and substances, to veterinarians, veterinary staff and pet owners 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  Please be aware there is a $35.00/per case consultation fee. Pet Poison Helpline is located in Bloomington, Minnesota.  The Helpline number is 1-800-213-6680. For further information regarding services, visit the PPH website at www.petpoisonhelpline.com.    

FAQs with Dr. Niemiec
Your Frequently Asked Questions

• Is dental disease really a big deal?
• What is periodontal disease?
• What are the warning signs of periodontal disease?
• Why is it important to have my pet's teeth cleaned regularly?
• My dog eats hard food. Isn’t that like brushing his teeth?
• How do I brush my pet’s teeth?
• My veterinarian has recommended a dental cleaning. What is involved?
• Why does a dental cleaning have to be done under anesthesia?
• When is a pet too old to have a dental cleaning?
• As a pet owner, what can I do at home to prevent periodontal disease?
• What should I look for when I examine my pet’s teeth?
• What should a pet chew on?

 Is dental disease really a big deal?
ANSWER: Dental disease is a HUGE deal. Periodontal (gum) disease is the number one diagnosed problem in dogs and cats. By the age of just two, 80% of dogs and 70% of cats have some form of periodontal disease. In addition, 10% of dogs have a broken tooth with pulp (nerve or root canal) exposure. This is extremely painful until the nerve dies, at which point the tooth becomes infected! Infectious oral diseases affecting the gums and root canals create systemic bacteremia (bacteria in the blood stream, which can infect other parts of the body). Periodontal inflammation and infection have been linked to numerous problems including heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, emphysema, liver disease, osteoporosis, pregnancy problems and diabetes. Therefore, oral infectious diseases are known as “the silent killer.”
 
In addition to systemic effects, oral disease can also cause inflammation to the eye, resulting in blindness. Furthermore, jaw bone loss from chronic infection can lead to a jaw fracture known as a pathologic fracture, and these have a very hard time healing. Finally, infectious oral disease can result in osteomyelitis (an area of dead, infected bone), nasal infections and an increased risk of oral cancer.
 
Speaking of oral cancer, the oral cavity is the fourth most common place for cancer. Unfortunately, by the time that most are discovered, they are too advanced for therapy. Early treatment is necessary for cure. That’s why you, the pet owner, need to check your pet for oral growths on a regular basis. Anything suspicious should be shown to your veterinarian promptly.
 
In cats, a very common problem is feline tooth resorption lesions, which are caused by normal cells called odontoclasts eating away at the cat’s own teeth. Approximately half of cats over 6 years of age have at least one. They are similar to cavities in that once they are advanced, they are VERY painful and can become infected. They are first seen as small red areas along the gumline.
 
Other oral problems include bacterial cavities, painful orthodontic problems, dead teeth (which are commonly discolored), and worn teeth. Almost every pet has some form of painful or infectious oral disease that needs treatment. Unfortunately, there are few to no obvious clinical signs. (See below, What are the warning signs of periodontal disease?) Therefore, be proactive and ask your veterinarian for a complete oral exam, and perform regular monitoring at home.
GO TO TOP
 
What is periodontal disease?
ANSWER: Periodontal disease is defined as the destruction of tooth attachment (periodontal ligament and jaw bone), caused by bacteria. It begins when bacteria form on teeth in a substance called plaque. If plaque is not removed immediately, two things occur. First, the plaque is calcified by the minerals in saliva to become calculus (or tartar). This is the brown substance on teeth that many people mistakenly equate with periodontal disease, but the truth is that calculus does not result in periodontal disease.
 
The other thing that occurs with chronic plaque formation is that it will start to move under the gumline. Once the plaque gets under the gum, it starts causing inflammation, which is called gingivitis. Gingivitis is the initial, reversible form of periodontal disease. If this inflammation is not controlled, the bacteria within the gingiva change to a more virulent type. These more virulent species create more severe inflammation. Eventually, the body responds to this inflammation. Part of this response is bony destruction, which continues until the tooth is lost. However, in most cases periodontal disease causes problems long before this happens. (See above, Is dental disease really a big deal?)
GO TO TOP

What are the warning signs of periodontal disease? 
ANSWER: Unfortunately, there are no obvious outward signs of periodontal disease until it is VERY advanced. The earliest sign is inflammation (redness or swelling) of the gums. This is generally accompanied by buildup of plaque and calculus on the teeth, but unless you are looking for these changes (see above, Is dental disease really a big deal?), they are not noticeable.
 
As periodontal disease progresses, the infection will worsen. The next signs within the mouth are receding gums or loose teeth. This increased infection may result in bad breath or blood on chew toys; however, this should NOT be relied upon for diagnosis. If your pet has bad breath or you see blood on toys, it is almost a sure sign of advanced periodontal disease requiring a trip to the veterinarian.
 
Late signs of periodontal disease include nasal discharge (blood or pus), eye problems, facial swelling or a jaw fracture.
GO TO TOP

Why is it important to have my pet's teeth cleaned regularly?
ANSWER: There are two main reasons for routine cleanings. First, they help prevent periodontal disease. Second, and possibly more importantly, a cleaning allows for a COMPLETE oral examination. Only with general anesthesia can most oral health problems be noted. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth, cavities, and in cats, tooth resorption. Finally, general anesthesia is required for periodontal probing, which is the method of diagnosis of periodontal pockets.
GO TO TOP
 
My dog eats hard food. Isn’t that like brushing his teeth?
ANSWER: NO! This is a myth, which came about from the surface of the teeth being slightly cleaner in pets fed dry food. Typical dry food does not protect against periodontal disease. This relates to the root cause of periodontal disease, which is subgingival plaque (plaque below the gumline). Supragingival (above the gumline) plaque accumulates and causes local changes in the gum tissue that allow attachment and growth of subgingival bacteria, however after this has occurred; supragingival plaque has little to no effect on periodontal disease. Traditional dry foods break apart at the tip of the tooth and have little to no dental benefit.
 
There are specially formulated and processed dental foods that effectively clean a pet’s teeth as the pet chews and are an excellent adjunct to routine tooth brushing. Look for the VOHC Seal of Acceptance on the dental food you choose.
GO TO TOP 
 
How do I brush my pet’s teeth?
ANSWER: Start with a soft toothbrush and veterinary toothpaste. The malt flavor from Virbac appears to be the favorite of my dog and cat patients. Do not use human toothpaste, as it contains detergents that may cause stomach upset. Also, I do not recommend the fingertip brushes for two reasons. First, the bristles are not very effective at cleaning. Second, they put the pet owner’s finger at risk for a bite, from even the most placid animal.
 
Go slowly and be very positive, using food treats if necessary. Place the brush at a 45-degree angle to the gumline. Brush in a circular motion, with a firm stroke away from the tooth. Try to reach all tooth surfaces, but concentrate on the outside surface.
 
The hardest part is getting started. It’s best to start young, because the earlier you introduce brushing, the easier it will be for your pet to accept it. I recommend handling your pet’s mouth from the time you bring him home. For puppies and kittens, introduce the brush at around 6-7 months. Be consistent; animals like routines, so if you make it a habit it will be easier on both of you.
 
For further information visit dogbeachdentistry.com and click on "Home Care."
GO TO TOP
 
My veterinarian has recommended a dental cleaning. What is involved?
ANSWER: The first step is to place the patient under general anesthesia. Anesthesia-free dentistry is NOT recommended (see below, Why does a dental cleaning have to be done under anesthesia?), and is even illegal in some states. Don’t be fooled by “sedation” dentistry. In my opinion, sedation dentistry is more dangerous than general anesthesia for two main reasons. First, in sedation dentistry (or any other anesthesia-free dentistry), the trachea (windpipe), and therefore the lungs, are not protected from the particles generated during a dental cleaning. These particles are full of bacteria and, if inhaled, can result in pneumonia.
 
The other difference between anesthesia and sedation is the length of effect. Most practices today employ relatively short-acting agents to put the patient under anesthesia, and then a gas to keep the patient under anesthesia. If a problem occurs under anesthesia, the veterinarian can turn off the gas and the patient will recover quickly. But under sedation, the effects generally do not go away until the drug is cleared by the system, which can take too long. General anesthesia is very safe today, thanks to advances in anesthetic drugs, training and monitoring equipment.
 
A true dental prophylaxis consists of several steps, some more critical than others. The required steps that must be performed include:

1. Supragingival scaling: This is the removal of the plaque and calculus above the gumline (what you can see).
2. Subgingival scaling: This is the thorough cleaning of the area under the gumline to remove disease-causing bacteria. It is typically performed by hand and is time consuming, but it is the most important step of a dental prophylaxis.
3. Polishing: Scaling slightly roughens the teeth. This promotes plaque and calculus attachment and reduces the lasting effect of the cleaning, so the teeth are polished afterward. There has been some controversy about this in human dentistry, due to the loss of enamel with many cleanings over time. However, in veterinary dentistry, with relatively fewer cleanings in an animal’s life, this is not a concern.
4. Sulcal Lavage: Cleaning and polishing results in debris being caught under the gumline, which must be thoroughly rinsed out.
5. Oral exam, periodontal probing and dental charting: This is a critical and often misunderstood part of the dental prophylaxis. There are teeth that cannot be thoroughly examined in a pet who is awake, when periodontal probing is not possible. With the patient under anesthesia, the mouth is thoroughly and systematically examined, and all findings are noted on a dental chart. Any diseased teeth or tissues are then properly treated.

Optional steps include fluoride therapy or using a barrier sealant.
 
Make sure you ask that all of the above five steps are performed, or you are likely getting a poor cleaning. Ask to see the veterinary hospital’s dental chart system if you have any concerns.
GO TO TOP
 
Why does a dental cleaning have to be done under anesthesia?
ANSWER: It is impossible to do a thorough cleaning and definitive oral examination (including periodontal probing) on a pet who is awake. Your veterinarian can provide the appropriate pre-anesthetic protocol and treatment plan to provide your pet with the best care.
GO TO TOP
 
When is a pet too old to have a dental cleaning?
ANSWER: NEVER. Healthy pets, even when they’re older, handle anesthesia quite well. Age does increase the possibility that the patient will have some degree of organ malfunction, and those with systemic problems will be at an increased risk. Therefore, we recommend pre-operative testing on all patients prior to anesthesia. The important organs include the liver, kidneys, heart and lungs. Recommended tests include a complete blood panel and urinalysis in all patients. Thyroid testing and thoracic radiographs are recommended in all patients over 6 years. 
GO TO TOP 
 
As a pet owner, what can I do at home to prevent periodontal disease?
ANSWER: The gold standard of home care is tooth brushing. To be effective, however, it must be performed at least three times a week; daily brushing is ideal. See How do I brush my pet’s teeth? (above) or visit dogbeachdentistry.com for directions.
 
Another form of home care consists of rinsing with an antiseptic agent. CET® Oral Hygiene Rinse (Virbac) is an excellent antiseptic rinse for veterinary patients. The active agent (chlorhexidine) impregnates the teeth and gums, and its antibacterial effect lasts up to six hours. Additionally, Maxiguard® (Addison Biologics) has been shown to decrease gingivitis. It is also very palatable, making it an excellent choice for feline patients. Both of these are excellent ways to decrease gingivitis and periodontal disease in your pet.
 
It may be challenging for some pet owners to make the commitment to daily tooth brushing for their pets, or to teach their pets to tolerate handling of their mouths. When frequent brushing is not practical, feeding an effective dental food provides a convenient solution. There are numerous products touted as “dental” foods or treats. Pet owners must be careful, as these typically only clean the tip of the teeth, not the areas that are necessary for control of periodontal disease. Of the dental foods available, only Hills® Prescription Diet® t/d® is clinically proven to reduce gingivitis, plaque and calculus. A combination of brushing and feeding the right dental food is best for oral disease control.
GO TO TOP 
 
What should I look for when I examine my pet’s teeth?
ANSWER: Look for anything that appears abnormal. The first sign of periodontal disease is redness of the gums. No matter how minor it seems, if this is present, disease is present. The pet needs veterinary care in order to treat the disease and avoid all the problems associated with it. (See above, Is dental disease really a big deal?) If periodontal disease is not treated early, advanced signs of disease include swelling of the gums, calculus on the teeth, receding gums, and mobile teeth. Any of these is a sign of advanced periodontal disease, and immediate medical attention is required.
 
Other things to watch for include swelling or masses, broken or worn teeth, and discoloration of the teeth. Any of these things should also be brought to the attention of a veterinarian right away.
GO TO TOP 
 
What should a pet chew on?
ANSWER: There is a fine line between being too easy to chew up and swallow, and being too hard, possibly damaging the teeth. Many commercial chew toys are far too hard and can break the chewing teeth. There are two guidelines I recommend using:

1. If you cannot make an indentation in it with a fingernail, the treat or toy is too hard.
2. If it would hurt to hit yourself in the knee with it, the treat or toy is too hard.

Pets who are prone to quickly swallowing large pieces of chew toys should be monitored during their use, to avoid an obstruction.
GO TO TOP

HEARTWORMS

Heartworm, Dirofilaria immitus, is a nematode (roundworm) that lives in major pulmonary blood vessels and in the right side of the heart. This worm is found mainly in dogs, (including wolves, coyotes, foxes etc.), cats and ferrets. Unless immunosuppressed, (i.e. have AIDS, on chemotherapy etc.) humans and other animals do not seem to be affected by heartworms.Heartworm is transferred by…

Mosquitoes!!! In this area one of the main mosquito species that transfers heartworm is called the Treehole mosquito. True to its name this mosquito lives in the holes of trees and can come out to bite when temperatures rise above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. This means that even in the winter dogs can become infected by heartworms! 

Heartworms in the continental US Numbers are lower than otherwise would be or have been because of the number of animals that are on preventative

Life cycle
A mosquito bites an infected dog, sucks up some of the microfilaria (baby heartworms). While in the mosquito the worms mature from L2-L3 larvae. The L3 larvae are then injected back into a dog, cat or ferret and start the migration to the heart. The adult can live in the heart for several years without the animal showing any signs of infection. The diagrams below, (Courtesy of the American Heartworm Society), explain the life cycle in more detail. Heartworms can be fatal!

Prevention is the Key
There are several very good preventative medications that can be given once a month to prevent heartworms. Here at the clinic we carry Heartgard Plus, Interceptor and Revolution. Please feel free to talk with us about which preventative is best for your pet. If your pet is on a preventative year round then we recommend testing every 3 years. If not then a blood test is recommended before starting a preventative.

Diagnosis
How do you know if your pet has heartworm? For dogs it is easy, just a simple, in house blood test that takes 10 minutes to run. Cats can be harder to diagnose. A good blood test is being developed and tested for use in cats. Ideally the dog should be tested, put on preventative for 6 months then tested again. If that test is negative then the dog does not need to be tested in our clinic for 3 years, (as long as the dog is on a monthly preventative).

What if my dog has heartworm?
There is a treatment! It consists of 2-3 injections of an arsenic derivative called immiticide, one month later oral ivermectin is given and then a month after that the dog is tested again for heartworms. The dog must be kept in strict confinement during the whole treatment. This treatment is serious, costly and not to be taken lightly. Most dogs do very well during the treatment process.

During the month of August we have a special on heartworm testing and Heartgard. Please call or visit for more details.

For more information about Heartworms visit:

http://www.heartwormsociety.org/  
http://www.capcvet.org/recommendations/heartwormcat.html Interesting articles from Veterinary Partner.com:
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=615  (the parasite)
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=609   (diagnosing heartworms)
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=488  (preventative options)
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=593  (heartworm in cats)
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=591  (heartworm disease)
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=610  (heartworm treatment)

ParvoWhat is parvo?
Parvo is a very small virus that loves to infect rapidly growing cells like intestinal cells, cells of the lymphatic system, fetal cells and bone marrow cells. This virus is quite hardy and can live in the environment for years. It is very hard to disinfect and/or kill. Almost all species of mammal (humans included) have a parvovirus that can infect them. Luckily these viruses are specific to their host, for example the dog parvo will not infect cat, the pig parvo will not infect cows etc. The canine parvovirus will infect members of the canine family, wolves, foxes, coyotes etc. Canine parvovirus CPV-1 was discovered in 1967, but did not seem to cause much of a problem until 1978, when there was a mutation of the feline parvovirus. In 1979 the virus mutated again. At that time there was not a vaccine available against canine parvovirus. The virus quickly spread worldwide and caused a major epidemic. Another mutation occurred in 2000 and again around 2006.Parvovirus is transmitted via fecal oral routes. This means that the virus will pass out in the stool of infected dogs and is eaten by another dog.

What are the signs of Parvo? How is it Diagnosed?
The main signs that are seen are vomiting, (profuse), diarrhea and low energy. It takes usually 7-14 days from the time the dog is infected to the time that signs are seen. The diarrhea becomes progressively bloody as time goes along, this is due to the fact that lining of the intestines is stripped away as the virus replicates in the intestinal track. Infected dogs also can develop anemia, low red blood cells, and low white blood cell counts. Puppies less than a week of age can have heart damage if infected at that time.

The virus kills one of two ways:

• Diarrhea and vomiting lead to extreme fluid loss and dehydration until shock and death result.
• Loss of the intestinal barrier allows bacterial invasion of potentially the entire body. Septic toxins from these bacteria result in death.

One of the easiest ways to test for parvo is using an in clinic “snap” test. The test is reliable and quick with results in just 10 minutes. False negatives do occur, especially if the virus is not being shed at the time. In some cases complete blood counts and other blood work may be done as well as other testing.

Can Parvo be treated and is there hope if my dog has it?
YES!!! Parvo CAN be treated! A positive test does not mean that the dog needs to be put to sleep. Treatment is mainly supportive, meaning IV fluids to correct dehydration, antibiotics to prevent septicemia, anti vomiting drugs, possible blood transfusions etc. Keeping your pet in isolation and at a veterinary clinic gives the best chance of survival. Average treatment time is 3 days. This can become quite expensive, but worth it. If there is no way of affording treatment in the hospital, then at home treatment can be started. Dogs have a far less chance of survival with just at home treatment.

How do I prevent parvo?
VACCINATE, VACCINATE, VACCINATE!!!! We are quite fortunate now to have a vaccine that is very effective in preventing parvovirus. Also it is recommended to keep puppies away from areas of high traffic areas, (including pet stores, parks etc.) until they have at least 2 sets of vaccinations, the last when at least 12 weeks old. It is impossible to totally prevent exposure to parvo. That is why vaccinations are so important.

12 dog diseases you can prevent with vaccination and deworming

1. Rabies (this can be spread to people)
2. Canine parvovirus infection ("parvo")
3. Canine distemper
4. Leptospirosis
5. Canine adenovirus-2
6. Canine parainfluenza
7. Canine coronavirus
8. Canine influenza
9. Lyme disease
10. Bordetellosis ("kennel cough")
11. Heartworm disease
12. Intestinal worms (roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, tapeworms, etc., some of which can also infect people)